Foie Gras Ban Ruffles NYC's Feathers
The vicissitudes of government once again rock my business world. My company, M.A.D. Foods, produces and sources speciality foods including truffles, wild mushrooms and duck confit. They are the natural outgrowths of my partner’s Dordogne heritage.
Our Sofi award-winning Duck Fat, produced under our Aux Délices des Bois label, is a national market leader. In addition to selling the fresh product through retail chains such as The Fresh Market, we ship shelf-stable Private Selection Duck Fat to about 3,200 Kroger stores. This product sustains our business to such an extent that the recent flap over foie gras sent shivers up our spine
Then, in stunning concert with our nation’s whacked-out news cycle, the New York City Council voted on Halloween to ban the sale of foie gras in New York City. The Council vote, 42-6, was introduced as part of an animal rights package. Over half the 60 council members co-sponsored the proposed law – some wearing pro-animal rights T-shirts at the hearing.
Sullivan County’s Hudson Valley Foie Gras and LaBelle Farms are two of three foie gras producers in the US. For the preliminary hearing, a busload of farm workers came bearing the stories and pleadings of 400 immigrant farm laborers whose livelihoods would be curtailed or eliminated when/if enforcement takes effect, three years hence. Sullivan County is the second poorest county in the state, and it relies heavily on these duck farms for revenue
A major concern of the farm’s owners is that the council did not investigate the allegations about cruelty. The cruel aspect of gavage, or force feeding, was the raison d’etre for two previous – subsequently reversed – laws banning foie gras in California and Chicago. As the newly formed Catskill Foie Gras Collective explains, current feeding methods are anything but cruel.
By Amy Farges
The vicissitudes of government once again rock my business world. My company, M.A.D. Foods, produces and sources speciality foods including truffles, wild mushrooms and duck confit. They are the natural outgrowths of my partner’s Dordogne heritage.
Our Sofi award-winning Duck Fat, produced under our Aux Délices des Bois label, is a national market leader. In addition to selling the fresh product through retail chains such as The Fresh Market, we ship shelf-stable Private Selection Duck Fat to about 3,200 Kroger stores. This product sustains our business to such an extent that the recent flap over foie gras sent shivers up our spine.
Then, in stunning concert with our nation’s whacked-out news cycle, the New York City Council voted on Halloween to ban the sale of foie gras in New York City. The Council vote, 42-6, was introduced as part of an animal rights package. Over half the 60 council members co-sponsored the proposed law – some wearing pro-animal rights T-shirts at the hearing.
Sullivan County’s Hudson Valley Foie Gras and LaBelle Farms are two of three foie gras producers in the US. For the preliminary hearing, a busload of farm workers came bearing the stories and pleadings of 400 immigrant farm laborers whose livelihoods would be curtailed or eliminated when/if enforcement takes effect, three years hence. Sullivan County is the second poorest county in the state, and it relies heavily on these duck farms for revenue.
A major concern of the farm’s owners is that the council did not investigate the allegations about cruelty. The cruel aspect of gavage, or force feeding, was the raison d’etre for two previous – subsequently reversed – laws banning foie gras in California and Chicago. As the newly formed Catskill Foie Gras Collective explains, current feeding methods are anything but cruel.
Many chefs have visited the farms to “see for themselves that the feeding is ethical and caring,” said Sergio Saravai, president of La Belle Farms, “Yet no current lawmakers or animal rights advocates have visited.”
Polls were conducted by both sides. Voters for Animal Rights, a proponent, reports that 81 percent of NYC voters support a foie gras ban. They presented an ancient depiction of French gavage, then went straight to the yay or nay question, failing to mention this was an inaccurate description of New York duck feeding practices. Language that's been denounced by the USDA was included.
On the other hand, The Change Research Foie Gras Survey found that 54 percent of New York City residents opposed banning foie, while just 34 percent were in favor.
The law will not go unchallenged. On November 14, Sullivan County’s legislature passed a resolution requesting that the Department of Agriculture and Markets perform an Agriculture and Markets 305 review. This protects farmers against local laws which unreasonably restrict farm operations within an agricultural district. The Collective is pursuing local, state and even federal avenues to reverse the decision, stating the ban is unconstitutional because a governing body in New York City cannot restrict farm operations in another district in New York State.
According to Marcus Henley, VP and Operations Manager of Hudson Valley Foie Gras, New York City accounts for about 30 percent of the farms’ total sales. Duck production yields more than the liver (foie). The whole bird is processed - as breast, duck leg confit, wings and one of M.A.D. Foods’ top sellers, duck fat. In all, these products churn out vast amounts of tax revenue for NYC, by both foodservice and retailers. This bird provides jobs to chefs, cooks, retail workers, truck drivers, accountants, graphic artists and us … NYWCA members. Fewer ducks down the road will mean a lot less quack to go around.
One NYC voter, paying both corporate and personal tax bills, will be on the campaign trail long before the 2020 City Council elections. She’ll be inviting candidates to take a stand on the foie gras ban, publicizing the results and voting loud and clear for the right candidates. That will be me.
Many chefs have visited the farms to “see for themselves that the feeding is ethical and caring,” said Sergio Saravai, president of La Belle Farms, “Yet no current lawmakers or animal rights advocates have visited.”
Polls were conducted by both sides. Voters for Animal Rights, a proponent, reports that 81 percent of NYC voters support a foie gras ban. They presented an ancient depiction of French gavage, then went straight to the yay or nay question, failing to mention this was an inaccurate description of New York duck feeding practices. Language that's been denounced by the USDA was included.
On the other hand, The Change Research Foie Gras Survey found that 54 percent of New York City residents opposed banning foie, while just 34 percent were in favor.
The law will not go unchallenged. On November 14, Sullivan County’s legislature passed a resolution requesting that the Department of Agriculture and Markets perform an Agriculture and Markets 305 review. This protects farmers against local laws which unreasonably restrict farm operations within an agricultural district. The Collective is pursuing local, state and even federal avenues to reverse the decision, stating the ban is unconstitutional because a governing body in New York City cannot restrict farm operations in another district in New York State.
According to Marcus Henley, VP and Operations Manager of Hudson Valley Foie Gras, New York City accounts for about 30 percent of the farms’ total sales. Duck production yields more than the liver (foie). The whole bird is processed - as breast, duck leg confit, wings and one of M.A.D. Foods’ top sellers, duck fat. In all, these products churn out vast amounts of tax revenue for NYC, by both foodservice and retailers. This bird provides jobs to chefs, cooks, retail workers, truck drivers, accountants, graphic artists and us … NYWCA members. Fewer ducks down the road will mean a lot less quack to go around.
One NYC voter, paying both corporate and personal tax bills, will be on the campaign trail long before the 2020 City Council elections. She’ll be inviting candidates to take a stand on the foie gras ban, publicizing the results and voting loud and clear for the right candidates. That will be me
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